ATE breaks renovation

T

tibbet

Teilnehmer
Seit
12. Sep. 2011
Beiträge
54
Ort
Lulea Schweden
Hi

Renovating my -76R100RS / MKM4V I'm on the breaks now.
As the breaks has limited effect, i prefere to have them in tip top state.
Riding in the alps can be very interesting as autobahnfahrt.

Swapped the rubber tubes to flexible tubes with steel surface.
On to renovatiing the calipers - pistons and sealings.
A Q. on this the adjustment seems to stuck, any tips on make them move smoother.

Secondly any idea to swap the main cylinder under the tank to get more pressure on the break pads.

About the rear break, a natural way would be to swap the drumbreaks to diskbreaks but then I would probably have to install AL rims instead of the original wire rims in silver with blue stripes.

Maybee better to install newer forks with f.ex. 4 pistons calipers. Well that could be the next step, meanwhile I have to continue to plan ahead my breaking.
PS the 4VMKM engine delivers appr. 90 PS with Mikuni carbs. modified silencers and openup airintake and filters. Making the bike run a bit above 200kmh and it doesn't take to long for it to reach 200.
Reinforced the framwork to make it more stable feels more comfortable crusing in 170 trough germany or on our local but not always so flat tarmac roads. May I say that wobbling are not an issue.
 
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I changed the brakecylinder under the tank against a 14mm cylinder on the handlebar. Together with two 40 mm ATE-calipers and Newfren-discs it was a very effectiv brake. Braided-steel-hoses are necessary. The drumbrake on the rearwheel is better than the original disc, just use new brakeshoes an match them on the drum. Act as follows:
- mount new brakeshoes
- drive a few kilometers and brake some times on the rear
- disassemble the rearwheel and watch the brakeshoes
- remove glossy areas on the surface and begin from first
- do this until the complete surface is glossy
 
If your brake calipers are ok it is very important to adjust them correctly when they are mounted at the bike.
But I guess you know about that procedure with the excentric bearing bolt.
After all you will improve brake power as well as chassis quality if you change to newer fork.
Highest improvements will be given by using the much more modern fork of the R80R/R100R-types.
 
Hi Tibbet,
check this out:
http://forum.2-ventiler.de/vbboard/showthread.php?34517-HBZ-unter-Tank-%FCberholen

http://forum.2-ventiler.de/vbboard/...chwenksattelbremse-Renovierung-der-Dichtungen

And maybe you want to go these steps to get a more precise braking point and less needed musclepower to brake:
http://forum.2-ventiler.de/vbboard/...erlegen-des-HBZ-von-unterm-Tank-an-den-Lenker

Always recommended:
New wires from the handbrakelever to the cylinder under the fueltank and flexible steel tubes from there to the brake cylinders which you have already. Always use original "ATE brake cylinder paste" and nothing else for conserving and serviceing the brake cylinders and new installed rubbers. Do nothing on your brakes that you don´t really understand, let a specialist have a look instead. Do not reuse cylinders and pistons that have rust damage at the surfaces where the rubbers glide. Minimal corrosion and dirt can be polished away of course but if there are already corrosion holes in a surface it needs to be replaced.

The rear drumbrake -when not totally worn out- is good enough for having a blocking wheel in all braking conditions so an (money intensive) upgrade to a diskbrake is not nessesary at this point i think.

Right now i´m working on an upgrade to double diskbrake for my 60/7 1977, also renovatiing all brake cylinders and stuff to get better braking performance. I´ll stick to the ATE-brakes because of their originality but if you want to get the most out of your frontbrake system at considerable cost you may think of switching to newer "Brembo brakecylinders" which need other forks indeed. This step is recommended looking at the power of your Lady :wink1:

If you need help in understanding the documents above just leave a note. For sure theres somebody around here who might explain it better than me. )(-:

Greetings from hanover
jan

aunt edith found some typos ;)
 
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Hi Tanks for all replies and tips.
Printed out "ATE Schwenksattelbremse/Renovierung der Dichtungen" just the right for todays wrenching.
Will comeback if I'm runing into problem reading.
Down to the workshop now.

MHG
/Sven-Erik
 
Renovated both calipers.
Remerberd that I had a renovation unit laing arround.
Found that the old pistons are slightly wider than the new one.
As it was a bit tight with the old pistons, took the least tight one and polished the surface gently.

Over to HBZ now ,, or tomorrow.
Have to be carefull with this joyfull renovation. It's still 5.5 mounth to riding condition i.e. no ice ot snow on tarmac.
Last year I could keept me occuiped with fixing some items + main-service on a -07 K12LT, but tis year?!
 
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Got a challange with the adjustment rod for the calliper.
It's stucked in the upper part with a bussin in the fork.
Can be that someone ( probably me ) pressed in the rod by force.
If so how to adjust the bussin / replace the bussin and sealing ?
Done!
Well wasn't that complicated.
Measured the rod inner end to 9.95 mm ( by a micrometer ) and runed a 10 mm steel drill first in reverse to take out any roughness in the upper end bushing, then very gentle forward at high speed to widen the bushing to 10.0 mm and a slightly bit more. Added lubrication and it's moving smooth now and are easy to adjust.
 
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From factory it's a 17.5mm HBZ and I consider swapping it for a 14.5mm HBZ
Any pro and con doing this?

BTW. the 14.5 mm has a bit of rust grove at two spot in lower side of the cylinder, don't like it do I need to renovate the HBZ cylinder. Guess it's enough to expand it's diameter by 0.1 mm.

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Was even easier than that had a scatt with a MC-builder and racer and he suggesteed to grind very gentley on the inner surafes. So I took the dremel on highspeed and grinded the surface. Next a very fine file with diamond surface to take almomst all roughness.

Second challange this HBZ has only one tube connection versus the stock with two. Will connect to the right caliper and then replace the bleeding valve in the right caliper with a solid tube runing just over the fender to the left caliper. And only bleed at the left cylinder. Or put a tube distributer just over the fender to run tubes from there to left and right caliper. Any opinin on this are appreciated.
 
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Have a challange.
It's about how to arrange breaklines to the calipers.
Have only one break line running from the 14mm master break cylinder, normally 2 break lines on the -77 RS 17.5 mm HBZ.
Have 2 options either install a new break tube fromg to one caliper to the other and one tube running from the HBZ or install a tube from the HBZ to a distribution block and from there 2 tubes running to each caliper.
Any advantages / disadvantages on each of this arrangements?

/Sven-Erik
 
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Have to confess that I'm back to std 17mm HBZ.
IMHO it feels more safe using manufactred and tested parts than making a cusom set at mech workshop.
Secondly will optimize the std setup and after some testruns switch to 14 BHZ if needed.
 
Well ended up the simple way.
Renovated calipers with caliper adjusters and 17mm main break cylinder.
Bleeded, adjusted calipers and wire to handle correct.

Got fair breaks, even better with steel cased flexxible lines.

Cleaned and grinded the rear break drum and surface.

In all the breaks are not up to modern standard but hope they will significantly decrease the speed when applied.
 
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