Kraussermotor restore

T

tibbet

Teilnehmer
Seit
12. Sep. 2011
Beiträge
54
Ort
Lulea Schweden
Anhang anzeigen 83883 Hi
My project for this winter, to restore my old companion during many adventures.
Originally a -76 R100RS but with a bit more power ( Krausser 4V, mikuni flat slide, improved breathing and ignition ), better handling ( stronger frame, swing, fork upper tripple clamp ) and better comfort ( balanced engine, seat, faring and streering ) and a bit more. Been a companin for 300kkm. ( 150 kkm 4V, before that 2V tourere and racer ).
Been in parts for 8 years and as it's a bit funny to ride it's time to put it together.
Broke a piston ( pistonrings cracked due to rust in a cylinder ), bought a new piston from hobbyist,nl 6 y ago and a used cylinder last week, Got a used cylinder from motorworks.co.uk. A fellow rider turned the cylinder for the new piston.
And now I'm having great time wrenching in the basement.:D
Just curios how you fellow krausser enthusiasts have manage wear on camshaft, valve train, setting carbs, slipping clutch and pitting on gearwheels in tranny,
limited breaking power and overrew at 5 gear?
 
AW: Kraussermotor restoreöpe

Hoi
Bin an Zylinder, pleuel und Zylinderköpfe an zu schraube.
Eine frage, was it die moment an MKM zuelinderköpfbolten?

/Sven-Erik
 
Hi
Thank you all for the links.
Status:
reinstalled the oilpumpcover with new sealing, flywheel with clutch, starter, alternator, ignition pickups ( aftermarket unit ).
Next: pistons in barrel ( cylinder ), barrel to engine, cyl heads.

Notes: Uses 0.0 valve clearence ( cold engine ), after discussion with Hr. Wuestenhofer at Wuedo 20 y ago.
Also decreased the valve-seat to 1.5 mm ( using the bike for touring and alpenfahrt ) appr. 120kkm ago. Liked to have higher seat pressure to prevent leaking / burned valve. Would have keept the wider valve-seat if I should have used it for recing due to heat transfere.

Q will use Loctite 577 for cylinderbase. What sealing are preferable.

Have tried sealing ( turned the cylinderbase for the sealing in later models, but the oil keept leaking out. Added a extra crancase ventilator tube and a oil separator to decrease the crankcase pressure i.e. oil leakage.
Runned the return oil back to engine.
 
AW: Krausermotor restore

... also have a look here:

[SIZE=-1]
[/SIZE]http://www.beemergarage.com/literature.html

there you'll find the following files:

Krauser MKM 1000 article December 1980
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm1280.pdf

Krauser MKM 1000 Parts Manual June 1981
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkmparts.pdf

Krauser MKM 1000 article March 1981
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm0381.pdf

Krauser MKM 1000 Electrical Diagram 19 Jan 1982
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkmelec.pdf

Krauser MKM 1000 Owners Manual
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkmman.pdf

Krauser 4-valve Head Owners Manual April 1982
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/krauser.pdf



Krauser MKM 1000 brochure
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm780.pdf

and dififferent Krauser MKM 1000 magazine ads and articles:

http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm1180.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm11802.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm1082.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm1182.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm1282.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/krauser2.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm383.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm183.pdf
http://www.beemergarage.com/documents/mkm883.pdf


Christian
 
A lot of interesting articles.

Noted that in one of the articles MKM1000 4-valve the final drive had a ratio of 3.0 vs. std 2.91.
Did it another way, extended the theoretical top speed by swapping the 5'th gear wheel on output shaft to a +6% gearwheel from wuedo. Never tried the topspeed after that due to our roadcondithions and my personal skill + selfconfidence ;-) But it was a bit over 200.
PS. also mounted 100/ tyre front and 120/ rear.
Fuel consumption with mikuni 42mm flat slide set by sjbmw.com 4.5L/100km at 100kmh with 2 35L AL Touratech panniers. :gfreu:
 
2013-11-22 19.17.54.jpg Mounted cylinders and heads.
Can be that I mounted pistons from above and not the base.
The base has a flange and not a sharp corner making it easier to let the pistonrings slip into the cylinder.
If a pistonring got stuck against the sharp upper corner and I used to much force pressing the piston into the barrel, the pisonring / wall between pistonrings in the piston can crack. This could be another explonation to the cracked piston.
Included a photo of the valves. Never renovated in 150kkm.
 
The engine and tranny are readdy to mount in frame.
Polished the frame and painted it.
Front break; renovated the cailipers and caliper position rod.
renowated a 14.5 mm main break cylinder and installed it instead of the std. 17 mm HBZ.
Time to move the parts to a garage ( heated ) and mounth the bike together.
 
14,5 and 17 cylinder? What kind of of brake are you mounting ?
However, send us pictures of your puzzle when finished.
 
Today's mission; moving the frame, fork and fronwheel to a ( heated ) garage ( -15C outdoor ) and mount it together. And OF COURSE make photos.
BTW. two more beemer-project's running.
- a R100S converted to a dirt track bike.
- -78 restoring of a R100RS

Concidering making a puller for the output flange of the gearbox.
Any drawings / tips?

/Sven-Erik
 
Thanks for the tips on puller, we are making a tool next week to renovate the tranny. Found some tips at http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/gearbox.html#open with drawing of a tool http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/gear/BMWTransOutputPuller.pdf.

The frame+fork are mostly together2013-12-13 20.06.11.jpg
Mainstand reinforced for more stability: 2013-12-13 20.07.53.jpg
Frame, ( steering head ) upper tripple clamp and a fork brace ( un top of the fender.2013-12-13 20.08.28.jpg
Stiffer rear part of the frame by a 60x5xappr.350mm plate. 2013-12-13 20.12.25.jpg
Swing made stiffer by a welded support frame. 2013-12-14 21.36.13.jpg
Engine ready to be installed ( Tomorrow ) 2013-12-14 21.35.58.jpg

BTW: the swedish authority are very liberal with modifications as long as they improve the saftey in trafic. So I made most improvement myselves with discussions with the road and saftey inspection ( Appr. TÜV )
The bike needs improve stability and handling as the power has rised from 70HP to appr. 90HP. And topspeed to 215+kmh ( + 6% 5th gear ).
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
Engine and gearbox in the frame.
Time for the rear with swing.
And a lot of wiring, items that 2013-12-15 10.32.32.jpgneeds a lot of attention to make bike run smooth and as reliable as possible. Seems that the restoration are on a standstill state as a lot of attention to easch wire are coming up.
 
Swing mounted with some frustration as it's tight with the frame mods.
Need to modifiy the modifications ;-)

2013-12-16 21.02.37.jpgExtension of the rear frame to make a hinge for the seat and a support for the rear end of the seat and luggage rack.2013-12-16 21.02.32.jpg Rear end of the seat with reinforce of the luggage rack mount and as the seat part of the hinge.
The seat open to the rear as with the normal side opening the right side pannier has to be removed.
 
Some shots from -06 when it last hit the road.2013-12-21 00.28.01.jpg2013-12-21 00.28.19.jpg
Current status: Upp faring, seat, tank, luggage carrier are on. By installed the oilcooler, found a schims with the same size as the sealing o-ring ( aslo called the $2000 o-ring as if you do not install it it ruin the engine ). Guess this schims should be outside the o-ring. But for what purpouse?
Also repainted the oiltranny: 2013-12-29 13.31.37.jpg
Next bleeding and adjusting the frontbrake.
Get a new battery to test the electric. Any tips on batteries? PS. has the Valeo starter.
 
Hi Tibbet,

nice winter project and nice bikes in your garage ;-)

Thanks for the interesting report, looking forward to see more.

Drive always carefully with your boosted cow.

Best regards

Christof
 
Impressing Bike, fine work :gfreu:

Are the original rear shocks still in use?
The modified rear swing should be app. ~1-2kg heavier than the original one, what about the performance on the road?
 
Hi

Used the custom made puller yesterday evening from the drawing refered to with links in this tread.
Added a cap to put over the puller bolt, to tap with the hammer on when turning the bolt. Tapping in the cap made the pulling much easier.
Will take some shots.

Have the std shocks BUT replaced the oil with 7 oil and replaced the springs with progressive springs.

Latest: had poor sparks in the plugs, replaced the coils with Dyna high energy coils. Power the coils + electronic ignition module direct from battery over a relay.
Replaced the wires with new 5kOhm wires ( can be cracks in the old wires that could ground the spark before reaching the plugs. )

Will renovate and install the 17 mm HBZ today.

PS. finally found the ign keys last weekend, was on a "well selected place" that I forgot 5y ago. While driving 250km last sunday I suddenly remembered the "clever location" and there it was. Guess my gesture.

If the HBZ works well, it's time to ... do the final adjustment, roll out the bike ( -8C ) and start the engine.
 
Wolfo. about handling, try the stability by set the steering damper to min, ride appr. 80 kmh, let my hands from the steering bar and hit one of the handle forward to observe the wobble. Use to decrease almost direct.
In town it's heavy to turn, you need to turn the bar and lean to make the turn.
At speed a up to 180 kmh it's a comfortable, above with touratech 35L panniers it's sensitive to side winds. W/o panniers been riding just above 200 kmh, restricted the speed due to the possibility to break with ATE system more than instability. The 7 cm higher windscreen makes the wind flow comfortable for both rider and passenger.
With high side winds as at the bridge to puttgarten, the rear end catches easier up the wind than the front end making the bike turn up against the wind. You just have to lean against the wind.
 
Found a set of wires at the local spare parts dealer.

It's a 90 degrees connector to the coil and strait connector at the spark.

Spark plug are centred of type 10 mm and the top are appr. 80 mm inside the valve cover.

Coil Dyna DC3-1 High Voltage connector are located on the side.
 
Renovated the HBZ and calipers.
Front breaks bleeded and adjusted.
On adjustment, adjusted both the caliper position and wire to HBZ.
PS. having flexible tubes with steel tread surface.

Works as well as the ATE breaks can perform.

Next adjusting timing and after that the bike are ready to start.
 
Got no spark, probably cause the Boyer Bransden Micro unit needs to be checked: http://www.boyerbransden.com/faultfinding.html.

Was a minor fault, swapped 2 wires and got fet sparks.
Con has a Dyna III unit as spare,
Basic fault poor wires to the spark plugs. Should have been appr. 5kOhm wires was >mOhm wires i.e. broken wires.

Would love to start the engine, but has put it outside and it's -10C and snow / ice on the drive way. Will find out a way.
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
Du musst dich einloggen oder registrieren, um hier zu antworten.
Zurück
Oben Unten