Hallo,
kennt jemand Bezugsquellen oder Zeichnungen folgender Tools aus dem Video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HShbaC9ORSo
Bei 03.28 min die Lehre mit der Hülse um bei abgenommenen Fliehkraftregler den Kontaktabstand einzustellen.
Bei 09:48 min die Hülsen um die Kerzenanschlüsse zum kurzschließen zu verlängern.
Vielen Dank für Eure Hinweise und liebe Grüße
Francisco
Hallo Francisco
beides bekommst Du hier
http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/Tools.html
3:28 POINTS ADJUSTING TOOL
1. Points adjust tool. This fits
/5-6-7 with original type points. This
tool temporarily replaces the advance get at the points and the
screws. You can then easily set the points using the attached
feeler gauge. Then just remove the gauge and replace the
advance mechanism. Makes setting feeler gauge and
instructions. Does not fit 79-80 models with points in the can.
$27.00
Very handy tool and the tool that got me started making tools
2. Points adjust tool for
BMW /2's with the
original points. Works just like the above
tool and offers the same advantages.
$27.00
9:48 BMW Airhead Carb. Sync. Adapters
These adapters are to
help you use the spark plug shorting method to synchronize
accurate method for syncing your carbs as it takes all factors
complete easy to understand directions. In addition to the
adapters all you will need are two long plastic handled
screwdrivers. This method of syncing carbs does take a little
your airhead will be running better than ever.
These adapters will work on any BMW airhead, points or
electronic ignition. They provide very secure attachment
which is what is needed on the electronic igniton models.
$9.00
Dazu findest Du auch folgende Infos unter
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/synchcarbs.htm
Zitat:
The shorting adaptor tools:
You need something that fits securely at the spark plug top THREADS. The first thing that comes to mind is likely one of the aluminum (usually) small threaded barrels that many spark plugs come with, and that you discard for your Airhead. Those do have the correct thread, obviously. Some used to be made of BRASS, and those are preferred, as you can solder to them. Most are now some sort of UNsolderable, but crimpable, aluminum alloy. Into the spark plug CAP, you can insert any sort of threaded rod as described a bit farther on, and if using one of these barrels of aluminum alloy, perhaps crimp a piece of 14 gauge house wiring solid copper inner conductor to it, the other end of the barrel screwing onto the spark plug.. I made one of these up using, instead of rod or house wire, a few inch piece of old ignition wire, and attached the adapter wire at the spark plug cap end by using the metal part from the top of an old spark plug...simply using a small hammer or vise to crush the old spark plug and remove the top innards. I don't bother carrying that, it looks unprofessional...I admit to keeping a couple of especially crude looking ones in my Walus gauge box. A very nice adaptor can be made with spoke material, see just below.
For the slightly nerdy: The threads are 4 mm x 0.7 mm pitch; and you can find screws at hardware stores, and nuts, if you wish to make your own version of these shorting adaptors from such items.
Here is a way to make a rather neat adaptor, using an old spoke nipple. Spokes have the correct thread, 4 x 0.7 mm. Use that nipple, and the spoke that it fits, and cut the spoke to a couple inches in length or so;...and put a teeny notch on the SIDE of the upper end, and then the spoke will be pretty solid in the spark plug cap, which has a cross-wire to 'grip' the spark plug threads. Don't make the adapter too long, as you need to get the spark plug cap over it. If you have a dual-plugged bike (two plugs per cylinder), you can make TWO spoke adapters for the top plugs, and an ignition wire type adaptor for the bottom ones, and have the two places to do the shorting (each cylinder) very close to each other...maybe an inch or so....so you can use a single screwdriver in each hand, just like you will do the single plug bike shorting. Many ways to do this, including insulated parts in an insulated switching box. SOME bikes will allow you to just short the bottom plugs to the cylinder head fins, when doing synchronization. On some, this reduces the idle speed too much. You have to THINK when shorting the bottom plugs this way, as you really need the RPM to be in the correct area for doing carburetor adjustments. That is one of the reasons some folks have made insulated switch boxes with knife switches, to short both plugs on either cylinder a the same time, to engine ground.
Be creative...design your own. Be sure it is secure in its use.
An assortment of spark plug shorting and adapting tools, for your viewing pleasure. These include the spoke and spoke nipple type. I have used all of these at one time or the other, improvising on the spot at TechDays, etc. The bungee cord (I actually used two of them) is here as I used the bungee to hold the bottom spark plug wire adaptors close to the upper plug shorting point....see text.
und noch ein Bild:
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...G86HHTl-qstjGk-rH1BdSXrj11TKrzT7GrfOvsyRmStSQ
siehe auch hier:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11022047&postcount=84
Ob sich das bei den Preisen allerdings lohnt musst Du selbst entscheiden...
Christian
